I’m just a cook, I aint no rocket surgeon

I think in this day in age of fine dining restaurants, as the culinary scene changes everyday; Chefs feel more compelled to try new things. I remember in Culinary school , we had a class called Classic French where we were taught about Escoffier and this and that…the basics of what cooking is. My response to my teacher was ” I’m glad everyone loves this man Escoffier, but its 2007, lets talk about what Grant, Wylie, Ferran,Keller,Andres, are doing” .  It is very obvious that tourneed  potatos and a perfectly roasted chicken served whole on a platter and other perfectly turned vegetables are kind of out of date. We all still watch old episodes of Iron Chef (not america). We could be the best avant-guarde chefs in the world, but when you see that, you still think ” man that looks great”.  So back to the school thing, I preached to everyone that culinary was taking a turn, it wasnt the 1890’s anymore. Change the damn curriculum.  So the reason for this post is this:

You look back on the history of culinary and flavors were so robust and technique was perfect. There’s nothing wrong with making a consomme with a gelatin raft, but I think Chefs these days are taking it to the extreme and forgetting what really matters: Flavor……..Technique: well that can change, everyone has thier own way of doing things. There’s not only one way to roast a chicken but in my opinion there is only one way to Truss it and one way to cook it perfectly. I  read in an article once many years ago which was about Robuchon and he said “at only ONE point in time is that lobster going to be perfect, you must pull it out at that exact time”

I appreciate what everyone is doing in this day in age, but it seems as if everyone wants to be Ferran. Modified starches and hydrocolloids have been used for years and years in frozen foods, snacks, candy bars,etc. Just because we use them in our daily cooking does not make it delicious. How many “gels” can you put on a plate with a soft protein and no crunch.  Some of the food out there looks FABULOUS, and combine textures and flavors like no other. Then there are the “others” which use methocels, and gellans, and this and that and freeze this with LN2 at the table because its cool.  

Before a chef goes off to manipulate this and that with starches and gums, I think you have to understand the fundamentals of cooking, not just trussing and roasting chicken, but every aspect of it.  I think young chefs coming up these days are stepping right into this “molecular gastronomy” train without even knowing why they do it or where it comes from. They just think it is cool.  I do not care what hydrocolloid ,modified starch was used , or what shape my fish is in…If it does not taste good, then  you failed. Knowledge is power

I saw this in my files and wanted to share. I was at Salara in Charlotte, NC for about under a year. I was there since the doors opened.  When I was first hired as chef, the concept was small plates, like tapas style with my modern american twist. My style of cuisine in Charlotte made headlines in two local magazines so i cant complain.  This was the last “fall” menu i worked on, after making the plates bigger with more components. The owner decided to change the concept yet again…to pizzas and wraps with sysco bought demi glace’s and such..It was time for me to bail out. I can not sell out on what i worked so hard to get.  I can not make this shit. Off to New York i went. 

This was never finalized, due to me leaving, but take a look:

Also: You can read this and interpret any way youd like. When i write menus, i go with flavors first and foremost, then i will think of manipulating textures and such. It might say “chorizo”  but i may make chorizo consomme with added modified starches, dehydrate and fry to make puffs….reading menus is one thing, when you get the dish, is the wow factor, not to mention, it tastes good.

Bass

Sun chokes, chorizo, tomato jam, saffron emulsion, marinated mussels, israili cous cous

Scallops

Compressed apple, celery root, fresh radish, fennel pollen, chipotle- yogurt, tempura  squash blossom

Maine Lobster

Corn, smoked bacon, grains of paradise, blood orange, leeks, whipped yogurt, white truffle consommé

 Beef Tenderloin

Baby carrots, zucchini, slow cooked beet, smoked potato, chive blossom, ricotta, bacon caramel powder

Ashley Farms Chicken

Butternut squash, trumpet royale, artichokes, spiced pumpkin seeds, Swiss chard, risotto

App:

Seared Tuna

Grapefruit, soy-lemon curd, young cilantro, pineapple, ”fried rice” and green tea flavors

Hudson Valley Duck

Banana jam, “pain purdue”, black pepper marshmallow, young swiss chard, smoked balsamic

Asparagus and Egg

asparagus, slow cooked egg, parmesan reggiano, black truffle, house made brioche

I had a blast in New York. Although the city is not for me, I had a great time and am very greatful for the oppertunities that I have had. I met a lot of great people as well as old freinds here in New York.  I have learned so much during my stay and I can’t wait to get back in the kitchen.  Thanks to everyone who made my stay as pleasurable as possible.

Back in October, Ferran Adria was in town promoting his new book ” A day at El Bulli” and made a few stops along the way and WD was one of them.  The luncheon made headlines in the New York Post which can be followed by the link. As a cook, it was an honor to be in the same building as these great chefs. It was a very inspirational day.   Here is a link so you can read the article.

http://www.nypost.com/pagesixmag/issues/20081109/Dining+Ferran+Adri+Meal+Fit+Culinary+King

 Here is the menu :

Surf & turf: beef tendon, BBQ sauce, cod tripe, aïoli

Chestnut-horseradish soup, smoked mackerel, verjuice

Aerated foie gras, brioche, tamarillo molasses

Everything bagel, salmon threads, crispy cream cheese

Eggs Benedict

Crab tail, soybean noodles, cinnamon dashi

Beef tongue, cherry miso, fried quinoa, palm seeds

Ricotta, capers, frozen honey

Grapefruit curd, pine nut, meringue, nasturtium ice cream

Melted chocolate, maraschino, almond kernel, cherry